July 2003

ENTREE

In This Issue: Founded 1981...our 22nd year

Touring Britain in style with Orient-Express A great deal for you at Magellan’s The Hotel Bel-Air in next issue A visit to Jordan Scott’s in London for the best seafood Salvatore Calabrese is a Cognac legend and more Perfect summer reading Dom Perignon’s exquisite 1993 Rosé ENTREE goes to Iceland

Kudos to Icelandair Dispatch odors with Petrotech Odor Eliminator Scotland’s hangover The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay St. Regis Monarch Beach for elegance by the sea The 2003 Infiniti FX35 Crossover SUV We are weary of hand shaking chefs ENTREE by e-mail? Girls retreat at Palm Beach’s Chesterfield

Orient-Express is offering a marvelous week-long Grand Tour of Great Britain which provides classic rail luxury together with a discerning look at the charms of the British countryside. Using the finest railway carriages adorned with plush upholstery, mosaic floors and intricate marquetry, Orient-Express will explore historic cities and visit stately homes on two magical journeys: September 5 and October 3. Passengers will board the train in London and travel to York, Edinburgh, the Isle of Mull, Chester, Bath and Salisbury. The green fields of England, the rolling hills of Wales and the wild glens of Scotland are all on the route. Along the way, guests will be cosseted with impeccable service, gourmet cuisine and stays at carefully selected hotels. Seven days and six nights with Orient-Express is priced at $4995 per person, double occupancy. Visit www.orient-express.com.

AmericaĦs leading source of travel supplies is a terrific Santa Barbara-headquartered company called MagellanĦs and weĦre proud to say they are friends of ours. We have now made it possible for ENTREE readers to receive a 15% discount on all MagellanĦs products. Simply go to www.magellans.com/entree to view their extensive line of canĦt-do-without travel acces-sories, gadgets, gizmos and supplies.

We canĦt wait to tell you next month about the Hotel Bel-Air, recently renovated to the tune of $16 million and looking very very good. The Restaurant and Terrace, lobby, suites, guest rooms and pool area have never looked better. More in August.

JordanĦs Queen Noor has recently published her remarkable story, LEAP OF FAITH. This best seller is a must read and it prompted ENTREEĦs elves to board a Royal Jordanian Airline flight to Amman. The purpose of the trip was to gain a better understanding of this part of the world and examine the travel experience, given the present situation in surrounding countries. We are most pleased to be able to issue a favorable report and give a loud Àall clear” signal. We found a fasci-nating country, friendly people, awesome historical and biblical sites together with five-star accommodations at bargain rates. This is truly a great time to visit Jordan. Our journey was safe, secure and free of even a hint of anti-American sentiment. ENTREE has just learned that its readers can have the same itinerary and duplicate our fabulous adventure at a fraction of the normal cost. The 9-day trip includes the ancient cities of Jerash and Petra, the Wadi Rum Desert, Aqaba on the Red Sea, the Dead Sea and a host of other historical and biblical destinations. Air is included from JFK and the hotels are five-star (we loved the Jordan Intercontinental Hotel Amman, Petra Movenpick, Aqaba Movenpick and Dead Sea Movenpick. This is a guided tour which includes meals and entrance fees. Double occupancy $1,671 and single $1,906 from Tania Tours, www.tania-tours. com.jo, telephone 00-962-6-5699261. A word about the guide Ali Abu Shakra. He is one of the best this publication has encountered over the years. With an extensive education (three degrees) and experience in the U.S., he makes Jordan a truly special destination for all participants. Reach him at www.aliabushakra.com, telephone 00962-6- 5931838.

ScottĦs Restaurant, in LondonĦs Mayfair, has always attracted its fair share of gourmets, dandys, debutantes, peers and just plain devotees of fine seafood. After all, it was founded in 1851. We popped in recently to test the kitchen because Brian Clivaz, the much-admired gentleman who put Home House on the map, is now running the show here, and we have a lot of respect for Brian. We were not disap-pointed. ScottĦs has a quiet elegance about it, pale green walls and fine pescatorial art. After a cocktail in the romantic Penguin Bar downstairs we sat down for a dinner of Loch Fyne oysters, pan fried Turbot and some finely-cooked traditional English vegetables. Our dinner companions chose ScottĦs Famous Fish Pie, Dover Sole and Dressed Crab. We tried various wines, courtesy of an excellent list and the attentive guidance of the well-informed Chef Sommelier, Sylvain Boudou. Puddings were out of this world, especially the lemon tart and the souffles. We highly recommend ScottĦs for those in the mood for the very best fresh fish (other animals can also had here perfectly cooked), correct English service without irritating hauteur and a setting that makes all look healthy and prosperous. ScottĦs Restaurant and the Penguin Bar, 20 Mount Street, 020 7629 5248.

London has many sinecures we love, among them the bar at AnnabelĦs, the bar at BoodleĦs and HarryĦs Bar. Add to these The Library Bar at the great Lanesborough Hotel, where one of the worldĦs most celebrated bartenders, Salvatore Calabrese, is in charge as manager. With its rich mahogany panelling and elaborate Regency-style furnishings, this bar has a timeless club-like atmosphere punctuated by the ivory tickling of the resident pianist who lays down Gershwin and Cole Porter nightly. Calabrese is a gentleman of wit, discretion and charm, the perfect host. He is an expert on vintage Cognacs and has spent years building The LanesboroughĦs collection of rare vintages. Some of historyĦs most memorable events are marked by the hotelĦs cognac vintages. Salvatore once opened a bottle of 1789 Cognac, the year of the French Revolution, and poured it all in one night at $1500 a measure. His rarest on hand include Diplomatic Trinidads, which are only given out by Castro and his Government, 1796 Napoleon, 1800 Bignon and 1802 JBE de Massougues. There are excellent vintage whiskeys, Armagnacs dating to 1972, old Calvados, ports from 1927 and 1945, vintage madeiras (1847 is the oldest) and classic vintages of Chateau dĦYquem dating back to the year 1900. The best and rarest cigars, too. Salvatore is a living legend and his cocktails are works of art. Visit him at The Lanesborough, a gracious St. Regis hotel, Hyde Park Corner, (44) 207 259 9999, www.stregis.com.

Books: NAPOLEON: The Immortal Emperor, Abrams, $45, a lavishly illus-trated portrait of the Corsican who rose from the ashes of the ancien regime to rule Europe. THE IRISH WAY, A Walk Through IrelandĦs Past and Present by Robert Emmett Ginna, Random House, $24.95, a poignant and savory walk through the space and time of Ireland, filled with anecdotes, myth and history. A SHORT HISTORY OF NEARLY EVERYTHING by Bill Bryson on CD from Random House Audio, $29.95, in which the author attempts to solve the conun-drums of the universe we inhabit and keeps us laughing all the way. KENSINGTON PALACE, The Official Illustrated History, Merrell Publishers, $19.95, by Edward Impey, the fascinating story of the London palace most closely associated with Diana, Princess of Wales and its splendid history since 1689.

Wine: the just-released 1993 vintage of Dom Perignon RosĜ is a must for your cellar, a delicate, contrasting balance between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, beautiful coppery and pink in color with orange highlights. This wine has initial floral notes followed by dried fruit, figs and apricots. Wood and spicy notes complement. The finish is precise, with an incredible freshness of young wine. We tasted pomegranate and blood orange. It can be paired with a variety of dishes, including lamb, pheasant, fowl, mushrooms, red-fruit desserts as well as cheeses such as ComtĜ, Parmesan and Appenzel. A treat at $200 a bottle.

Iceland is a magical destination this time of year. ENTREE recently had the privilege of enjoying the comforts and service offered by Icelandair and its new Nordica Hotel, located in the capital city of Reykjavik. This new premier hotel just opened in May, with 284 guest rooms, spa, fitness facilities, restaurant and bar. Our itinerary included a plane trip to the Arctic Circle, snowmobiling on a glacier, birdwatching, cruising a fjord and relaxing in the earth-warmed water at the Blue Lagoon. We discovered two culinary delights on this journey. Southeast of Reykjavik in the small fishing village of Stokkseyri, is a small, unpretentious lobster restaurant known as Fjorubordid. Here we were introduced to the wonderful world of Icelandic lobsters. They are much smaller and tastier than the traditional Maine lobster. They are sauteed in the shell with butter and garlic, and served in the pan along with bread and various sauces. After eating these delights until lunch is no longer being served, one can watch chef/owner Bjorn Gudmundsson take his daily swim in the 40 degree water behind the restaurant. By contrast, our evening meal was at the famed SiggiHall, labeled one of the worldĦs most exciting new restaurants by Conde Nast Traveler in 2001. A rack of Icelandic organic lamb with blueberries and wild thyme was the order of the day. No visit to Iceland would be complete without a visit to the Icelandic Phallological Museum and a chat with owner/director Sigurdur Hjartarson. The museum actually contains a collection of phallic specimens belonging to all the various types of mammals found in Iceland. There is not a human exhibit yet, only molds and replicas; however, we did note several letters of posthumous donation from proud owners. This visit was a fitting climax to our journey through this delightful country. For additional information on tours and accommodations check www.icehotels.is and www.re.is.

Kudos to Icelandair for their 92% on-time performance record at all airports on their route network last month. In the U.S. and Europe, this airline is committed to punctuality, a tribute to the dedication of their staff on the ground and in the air. Visit www.icelandair.com.

There is a product on the market ideal for those of us who travel with children or pets, or just have busy households. Sea Yu Petrotech Odor Eliminator works like magic to dispatch smells of all kinds, instantly and permanently. Use it on any surface or fabric, it is all-natural and non-toxic. Just $12.95 and available at www.sea-yu.com and (877) 854-6624. A list of retail stores that sell the product is also on the site.

It was quite a party. After squandering millions on a new Parliament building, the mismanaged construction of which has become a national embarrassment, ScotlandĦs hangover has begun. The financial service industry has been hit by recession and visitors are fewer. That is a pity because Edinburgh is one of EuropeĦs safest and most spectacular cities, dominated by the great castle on its mount. For a capital city, Edinburgh has been poorly served by hoteliers. The reopening of The North Briton by Sir Rocco Forte as the Balmoral Hotel, in its splendid position at the top of Princes Street, provided the first convincingly Scottish equivalent to the grand hotels of London. The chintz ambience of its guestrooms is so authentic one could well be staying at Her Majesty the QueenĦs Scottish seat†Balmoral (Her Majesty was, we hear from an impeccable source, unamused at the appropriation of the name). Standards are now excellent, making it a popular lunch and dinner venue for local grandees and the parliamentarians (not the same thing). Now all Edinburgh needed was a hip hotel to satisfy the opposing wing of cool, younger travelers. Lo and behold, it has one, in the shape of The Scotsman, lodged in the turreted former headquarters of ScotlandĦs national newspaper. The position on North Bridge above the Waters of Leith commands equally dramatic views across to the New Town and the extravagantly gothic monument to Sir Walter Scott, author of ROB ROY. Where the ScotsmanĦs editor, publisher and scribes once toiled, green eye shades clamped to their brows, guests now repose in serene comfort. Enough walnut paneling survived to furnish half a dozen suites. The other 62 rooms and suites offer a distinctly contemporary take on Scottish tradition†and consid-erable space to enjoy it. High tech underpinnings are well concealed by Highland simplicity†the book beside our bed was a guide to Estate Tweeds. Design junkies have been in ecstasy over the black and white marble bathrooms, aquatic hymns to art deco. Overall, the attention to detail is exceptional†not just interactive TV, espresso machine and trouser presses in the rooms, but a butlerĦs hatch into which newspapers and the breakfast tray can be placed without guests needing to scramble for decency. A charac-teristic touch is the Edinburgh version of the Monopoly board game. There is even a kilt-pressing service. Staff is friendly and efficient, although we question the employment of Australians on the concierge desk, where familiarity with the city should be the priority. However, they managed to secure us, at short notice, a reservation at the acclaimed Tower Restaurant nearby. In fact, there is little need to set foot outside the hotel to eat. The ScotsmanĦs fine dining establishment, Vermilion, is one of a handful of restaurants responsible for overturning the cityĦs abysmal gastronomic reputation. The vibrantly intimate room†just 32 covers†is so romantic that guests were clearly falling in love all over again. If not with each other, then with the imaginative wine list. Geoff BalharrieĦs cooking manages to transcend the narrow band of haggis-laden tradition that has dogged Scottish hotel restaurants, offering a lighter interpretation of the game and fish that are the glories of the Highlands and islands. Be sure to start with Dressed Skye Crab and Langoustines with pressed rosemary roasted tomatoes. The grand entrance to the Scotsman, into which angry lairds once stormed to protest the introduction of adver-tising on the paperĦs front page, is now the chic North Bridge Brasserie. The cityĦs glamorous young sit at chrome tables beneath massive marble pillars nibbling reasonably priced sushi, ribeye Aberdeen steaks and the outrageously calorific Chocolate Box. Beneath them is a handsome spa with a stainless steel swimming pool, and below that a screening room for movies. Happily, the Scotsman is nothing if not easy to reach, being less than 30 minutes from the airport and offering valet parking. It even enjoys its own entrance to Waverley railway station. All in all, an ideal base from which to explore the city and the Highlands. With visitor numbers down, prices have settled, making Scotland better value than the rest of Britain. Bookings at the best hotels are easier to come by, even in peak season, although the country remains lovely through October (but prone to rain in July). Scotsman Hotel, 20 North Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1YT, Scotland, telephone +44 131 556 5565; www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk. From $280 including tax and service. Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, Edinburgh, EH22EQ Scotland, telephone +44 131 556 2414; www.roccofortehotels.com. From $275 including tax and service.

The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay is just 30 miles from San Francisco Airport, a magnificent 261-room golf and spa resort sitting on an ocean bluff overlooking miles of rugged California coastline. Inspired by the grand seaside lodges of the 19th century, this relaxed and elegant resort features Shingle Style architecture, hardwood floors, large stone fireplaces, beamed ceilings and a notable art collection. English antiques are blended with Portuguese ceramics and tapes-tries throughout the hotel. The majority of the guestrooms offer panoramic ocean views and each room is equipped with high-tech features such as high-speed Internet access and laptop compatible safes. On The Ritz-Carlton Club Level, a dedicated concierge, five food and beverage presentations throughout the day and spacious lounges create the feel of a hotel within a hotel. Go ahead and opt for the Club Level, it is just a small surcharge more and well worth it, a fine deal if you enjoy eating and drinking extremely well around the clock. Dining choices at the resort range from the nautically-inspired Navio, serving coastal cuisine to The Conservatory for light fare, The Salon for afternoon tea and The Bar with live entertainment. The resort is heaven for golfers, offering two courses, one a traditional-style and the other with ocean views from every hole. A large spa and fitness center is a lavish setting in which to enjoy treatments or a co-ed Roman mineral bath. Other recreational attractions at the resort are a scenic walking path, a tennis center, basketball. Horseback riding, fishing, whale watching, hiking, biking and antiquing are all nearby. We very much admire the spirit of Ritz-Carlton†Àladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentleman”†and their strong focus on the highest quality of hotelkeeping, both so evident here. For reservations or additional information call (800) 241-3333 or visit www.ritzcarlton.com.

We drove a brilliant silver 2003 Infiniti FX35 Crossover SUV up the coast road to The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay and were envied by other drivers the whole way. We loved the zippy 280 HP engine delivering 23 mpg highway, the anti-lock disc brakes, aluminium wheels and traction control system. Ditto details like the Bose audio system, overhead sunglasses storage, compass, elegant clock and leather heated seats. This is an intelligently designed and great handling V6 vehicle built on the Z chassis that belies its SUV nomenclature. Infiniti has a legendary reputation for reliability and quality, and this FX35 Crossover proves the point. Sporty and technologically advanced, it is nevertheless luxurious and comfortable, a great alternative to the BMW M5 or the Porsche Cayenne, but easy on the pocketbook in the high 30Ħs. A powerful V8 version is priced in the mid 40Ħs. Details on both can be found on at www.nissannews.com.

For both exhilaration and relaxation, the elegant St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort & Spa in Dana Point, California cannot be beat. Situated on 200 acres overlooking the ocean, the hotel boasts a dramatic location matched by few others. Built in Tuscan-style, most of the 400 guest rooms command breath-taking views of the sea. All rooms combine state-of-the-art technology with timeless elegance. Attentive service is the hallmark at The St. Regis Monarch Beach. Personalized butler service assures total pampering. The Gaucin Spa is a haven for massage and facials. Only the freshest natural products are used. A beauty salon, lighted tennis course, on-site championship golf course, three heated pools, nature trails and several restaurants, including the much-praised Aqua (we preferred the less formal Motif restaurant with its creative, small plates of tasty original food), complete the picture. The St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort & Spa is run by the very talented and personable General Manager, Ulrich Krauer, who assures a seamless stay. Call (800) 722-1543 or visit www.stregismb.com.

ENTREE is so weary of chefs with no charisma coming out of the kitchen to shake our hand. We know they mean well, but the fact that they feel obligated is so obvious. We wish theyĦd stay in the kitchen cooking. While weĦre at it, we donĦt want to shake hands with the owner, hostess or waiter, either. When we go to a restaurant itĦs to eat, not meet new people.

Many of you have expressed a desire to receive ENTREE by e-mail. The advantage is much quicker delivery straight to your computer. If this appeals to you, please let us know, at wtomicki@aol.com and starting in August, we will send you our newsletter electronically.

HereĦs a brand-new package offered at The Chesterfield Hotel in Palm Beach. The Girls Retreat is for women who want to celebrate the very essence of their temple: themselves. The four-star hotel offers a tropical sanctuary for the mind, body and soul, a refuge of deliberate calm and relaxation, where anything is possible and everything is attainable. Available July 18 and July 19 only, hereĦs whatĦs included: two nights stay in a deluxe room; Continental breakfast each morning; yoga class; after-yoga smoothies; 10% off on all shopping at Saks Fifth Avenue; makeup session with Saks Palm Beach Chanel makeup artist; gift bag from Chanel; 5x7 photo taken after makeover; traditional afternoon tea one afternoon; guided morning walk and meditation on the beach; dinner in the Leopard Lounge and Restaurant; spa lunch and lecture with personal trainer, Vivian Schreck; 15% coupon to use in the Leopard Lounge and Restaurant or Gift Shop. The Girls Retreat package is $310 based on single occupancy, subject to availability. Bring a friend and add $85 per person. Tax and gratuity not included. Sure to put some Zen into every busy life. For details and reservations, contact The Chesterfield Hotel toll free at (800) 243-7871 or visit online at www.chesterfieldpb.com.

ENTREE is published monthly by ENTREE Travel, P.O. Box 5148, Santa Barbara, California 93150, (805) 969-5848, Fax (805) 969-5849, William Tomicki, Editor and Publisher. Associate Publisher: Edward L. Stephenson. Senior Executive Editor: Syd Summerhill. Editor-At-Large: Scott Smigel. Executive Editors: Julian Allason, Barbara Daugherty, Tom Landau, Kameron Seagren, Hadley Tomicki, Karen Robertson, Theron Tomicki. Senior Editors: Greg Cook, Ron Green. Contributing Editors: Matt Katz, Doug Margerum. Senior Contributing Editor: Mark Birley. Production: Tom Buhl. ENTREE cannot be reproduced without written permission. Subscriptions are $75 per year. The number of subscribers is strictly limited to protect the rather privileged nature of ENTREEĦs information. For foreign subscriptions please add $12.00 additional postage. Back issues may be purchased at $10.00 a copy. See ENTREE online at www.entreenews.com. All ENTREE subscribers are welcome to e-mail Editor William Tomicki at wtomicki@aol.com to discuss their travel plans. ENTREE is committed to protecting our environment through the use of recycled paper.

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